Day 17-18: Home again home again

 The alarms pinged from multiple devices and zombie like - or was it more robotic like - we were in pack-up and home mode. This "three hour" window at the airport for international travel adds just a bit of "length" to the journey. It does take a new "mindset" in post covid travel - and there is no fighting it - you just have to go with the flow.

It seems awfully quiet

And, very pleased to report that flow it did. All effortless. Hit the dining room as scheduled for breakfast (not quite the Pride of America choices - hot tea or coffee with a pre packaged ham and cheese roll - but it was welcomed) and then jumped on the 7.50 shuttle bus for the 1- minute ride to the Qantas gate at the airport. True to form, the Jetstar flight was cancelled (those poor long suffering travellers) which turned out to be a bonus for us as the Qantas staff were able to use the additional check-in facilities. This translated to absolutely NO QUEUES - so we were "through" and lined up at security. Shoes off, a quick wand because of the knee beeps and at 8.20 we were actually ensconced in the departure lounge with nearly two hours to kill!

Was quite amazed at how quiet the airport was - had the entire waiting lounge to ourselves. Until we eventually realised that other Aussies we had checked in with were not around. We were actually in the wrong lounge! Oh well, no harm done - eventually righted that little wrong in time for boarding.

There were 70 spare seats on the flight (those Jetstar passengers would have loved a reallocation) which made for an amusing 20 minutes as very "eager" passengers jockeyed for the spare room. We were more than happy with our neat little twosome - even more so when the gentleman in front was reallocated a seat - which meant we didn't have to deal with a recliner.

Lots of jockeying for spare seats

Having said that - a 10 hour flight is "nothing." You barely have time to settle in your seat, eat the food, watch a movie and make a few trips to the loo. Definitely no sleeping for us on this return leg.

Ten hours is "nothing!"

No shortage of food - and drinks!

Of course, no direct flight home - so did have that annoying little detour in Sydney - but again, bag collection, obligatory duty free, customs, transfer and re-boarding the connecting flight all effortless although the flight did experience a slight 30 minute delay (still thinking it is better than the fate of our Jetstar travellers who are still in Honolulu!)

Back on home soil in Brisbane just before 11 - picked up the shuttle bus to the long term parking - found the Kia - which started first time - and @Mac effortlessly resumed driving duties on the right side of the road (the left that is) and delivered us home just a few minutes before midnight. As always, glad to open the front door and find everything "tickety boo" - and then a shower and the waterbed!

Tomorrow will be re-provisioning and learning how to be self sufficient before the washing machine whirs into action.

Needs some time to heal

Loved our time with @MIndy and @Ian (they are still there!) and enjoyed the luxury of cruising again and learning about different parts of the world - even though we are a little foot sore and weary. A few new processes for travel - but certainly manageable. 

And the best thing is - only a couple of months and we are away again - this time to the Middle East - from Istanbul to Dubai.

The countdown for Istanbul to Dubai!

Day 16: A rude awakening before Pearl Harbor

What a surprise that was - and I can honestly say that has never happened to us before. Details from me are sketchy but @Mac was actually awake and is still shaking his head.

Hands on at Pearl Harbor

At 7.25 am there was a call of "good morning" at the cabin door, a wrap of the knuckles and then the door was opened and all the ight were turned on from the master switch inside the door.

What? The steward was the wakeup call! They were obviously serious about getting us off the ship! We had planned to disembark at 9.15 after breakfast. Maybe we should have clarified our plans because there was definitely no breakfast on offer anywhere and the loudspeakers shrilled the tag announcement for luggage collection at 5 minute intervals. 

Was a very rude awakening and was an unexpected abrupt ending to our week. But disembark we did and when we glanced up at the clock on the outside of deck 6 for our final security check it was 8.10!

Booted very early

Luggage collection and taxi access was a breeze and we rocked up to our airport accommodation at the Plaza Inn. Had to leave our luggage in storage with them because checkin wasn't until 3 but did luckily score a hot coffee in the breakfast dining room as they were closing up.

Back to our trusty MovIt app and the Holo Bus card and we picked up the bus for Pearl Harbor right across the road from the hotel.

Bus experts - door to door

Very tight security here in this active military base and absolutley no bags were permitted on the grounds - not even a handbag. Equally surprising though was that the entry to the grounds themselves was "free".

There were four main exhibit areas - and once you were "in" you could avail yourself of the free exhibits or you could pay an entrance fee for others.

We had one major job yesterday- and that was to login to the Pearl Harbor site and for the mighty cost of $1 per person, secure ourselves a ride on the ferry for a specified timeslot to go out to the memorial for crew of the USS Arizona. We had set times and countdowns on our phoned and were online at 2.58 for the 60 seat ticket release for each half hour. Shipboard internet connection off the Na Pali Coastline doesn't exactly fly. By the time we had refreshed at 3 o'clock, selected our 2 tickets and timeslot and pressed "redeem tickets now" it was 3.04 and every ticket was gone. I figure those tour operators must have some way of swooping on all the prepaid timeslots.

Audio tour and movie kept us entertained for the hour wait

Better news was to come on the day, thank goodness.  Spoke to one of the staff about our "plan of attack" for the day and he shared with us that there was a "standby" line for those who didn't have a reservation. Joined the line and did have to wait for an hour to get on board - but board we did.

Appreciated the veteran who was positioned at the memorial who shared the story of Pearl Harbor from the perspective of the crew of the Arizona - of the lost souls and the survivors and then details of the symbolism of the memorial itself. It was worth the wait and set us up for the day.

Museums, theatres, hands on displays, artefacts, recreations, documents, testimonies, eye witness accounts and touching tributes to Military personnel. They were all endless and diverse and accessible and young and old could find a corner or a level of engagement that was intriguing .

There was pride and honour and commitment to service and sacrifice and the protection of freedom but it was definitely sombre and confronting. 

And although this was the American  side of the story - the absolute ingenuity of the Japanese strategy was highlighted - the weaponry they had developed, the brazenness of the attack,  the risks for their soldiers - this all formed part of the stories that were told.

Admitting that after the early start and just a coffee, come 1 o'clock we were looking for a break of the fast with some lunch. What a difference a day makes - egg sanga and a ham sanga washed down with some bubbly Coke (ship was Pepsi only so this was actually a highlight) consumed on a bench surrounded by some equally hungry birds (nope, we didn't share human food with them) was our "lowly" offering. 

A humble lunch

Paid the entry fee then to take a closer look at the contribution of the submariners to the second world war. And again, this was outstanding. Gosh, the walk through the sub, the USS Bowfin  highlighted the cramped conditions, the dials and controls, the bunks wrapped around the torpedoes - all really beyond comprehension. And the museum was again totally hands on - lots of movies to select from, missions to try your hands at, historical development of the subs and their weaponry - I know, it was  all about war, and I am no "fan", but WOW the combination of history and science really sucks you in.

Climbing up, over and in the USS Bowfin

That was it - we had run out of time. Scooted outside and jump on the shuttle bus to take us over to Ford Island for the Missouri and the Aircraft display but because it was just on  4 pm we could only do a quick walk by and then a drive by. 

A quick run around Ford Island

Definitely need more than a single day to explore this place. 

Back on the bus, right to our front door for check-in, showers and a wrestle with the suitcases to get out gear for trip home tomorrow. Off to dinner at a local family BBQ restaurant (can't even begin to say the names of what we ordered) - very few choices left open at 7 pm on a Friday night outside the airport. 

No idea. Just picked something.

Concrete table, under the freeway, out of cardboard containers. Coming back to the real world of dining.

Finally back to tonight's home to do something we haven't done for 17 days. I am surprised @Mac remembered how!

But he must have called on muscle memory because he did find the remote control and turned on the TV and watched the news. Still laughing, because he hadn't quite picked up that it was in Chinese! He blamed the noise I was making with hair-dryer. Sure. No doubt he will be much better at home when he has retuned to Foxtel.

Step Count: 12 548

Weather: 31 - 26

Day 15: On watch on the balcony

An idyllic day today in Kaua'i for the morning before an afternoon cruise around the dramatic Na Pali coastline.

Balcony boozing along Na Pali coast.

Made it a leisurely start to the day with a little extended rest in the morning. So late in fact that the breakfast venues were closed. As an aside have been privileged on this cruise to be guests at Cagney's each morning for breakfast. Very civilised sit down table service with hot and cold choices and the opportunity to engage in conversation with fellow guests and staff.  We are definite fans of this setting rather than the noise, bustle and sometimes frenetic madness of the buffet at Aloha.

Cadillac Diner - milkshake heaven

So many venues closed because ship is only operating at 50% capacity - staffing a definite issue for them and every other staff member is a "newbie" - only been in the job for 4 weeks. Mind you - can't compliment the staff enough - thoughtful, bright and breezy, helpful and so accommodating. We have on occasions felt very sorry for them when the odd "pushed to the limit" vacationer has been terse, loud and downright grumpy because they had to wait 10 minutes. This was rare though as well - vast majority of travellers taking the extra time to smile, thank, acknowledge and praise the staff.

What a life for the staff - their contract sees them signed up for 6 months - they work 7 days a week for that 6 months - never a day off - and for most it - it is in a split shift situation. We didn't see a single frown or grumpy face in all our interactions.  And very impressed with their "staff training" - we saw mixed crew groups every day gathered for "leadership" and "guest services" mentors hip.  And very high expectations - our butler Jo shared with us some of the transparency and accountability processes in place that his supervisors employed to ensure standards were being maintained. He positively beamed when he recounted his recent inte re action with t he "big bosses" who had given him his feedback. Made us want to keep everything ship-shape just to help him out! Wonder if that was part of the strategy.

So back to the missed breakfast. No worries - we were able to set ourselves up in the Cadillac Diner andctry a few new choices. Enjoyed it so much we even fronted up for a milkshake for a light lunch option. And back to the staff - yep, the Cagney's team had moved on in rotation into the Cadillac and greeted us as long lost clients.

The afternoon was all about the balcony. We set up with a bottle of champagne and tuned into the commentary as the ship rounded the northerntip of Kaua'i and Princeville and hugged in tight to Na Pali coastline. This is a 15 mile stretch of rugged (read here REALLY RUGGED) coastline with razor sharp ridges topping more ridges that plummet to the sea. The cliffs here are 4000 feet and meet the ocean in precipitous drops overlooking arched caves or land just as sharply onto secluded white sandy beaches. 

It was beautiful and fascinating and our amateur photos can't do it justice. The colours changed through browns to greens and constantly shifted as the setting sun was reflected in new angles. Apparently, a mecca for very serious (and appropriately geared up) hikers.

We were so caught up in it were a little late for our packing duties and subsequently missed the Icons stage show but true to form, we were not late for for our final late diner.

Our last hurrah. Booked in for Cagneys - the speciality steak restaurant. Yes, the usual before during and afters of our drink accompaniment and got to tick off the oysters here as our only missing seafood indulgence. Settled on a 5 oz and 16 oz choice for our carnivore fix (guess who took the 16) and freely admit to the 7 layer choc cake finale. Another waddle-worthy over-indulgence.

He may have been oversized in the steak, but I was the wine winner!

Know that it is swiftly coming to an end. Had to wheel our priority tagged bags outside for midnight collection. Back to Honolulu tomorrow.

Step count: 3674 .. need to improve to walk off dinner

Day 14: A final road trip day around Kaua'i

The final island of our cruise was Kaua'i (it rhymes with Hawaii but starts with a "k") considered to be the garden isle and boasts the place on Earth with the highest recorded annual rainfall. Yes, so much variety in vegetation, everything lush and green and all so prolific. Very pretty.

As far north as we go on this trip

An early start saw us assembled in the theatre ready to leave the ship at 8 am. The harbour really put on a grand welcome - lots of people to great us, bold large stickers shared freely to proclaim your love for the island to affix to your shirt or backpack and an Hawaiin band complete with the ladies of the hula troupe. 

First stop was a view of the Opaekaa Falls. A drop of 150 feet today - actually thought it was a waterfall- unlike some of our previous little falls. Gave us sweeping views over the river.

Some height to these waterfalls

Subsequently joined the @Smith family for a cruise along the Wailua River and to take a short walk through a tropical forest to visit "Fern Grotto" a lava cave that is a natural amphitheatre.  The barge setup was intriguing - flat bottomed vessels that slowly make their way along the muddy lower reaches of the river. There is a singer and hula dancer on the journey up and then on the way back, the Captain provides commentary. The grotto itself or now closed and visitors get to stand on the deck - apparently many weddings are held here each week. The performers present the Hawaiin wedding song here as entertainment.

Have to malke the comment that it is still disconcerting to be walking through the beauty of the rainforest only to be surrounded by the constant cock-a-doodle crowing of dozens of roosters and the proclamation every other minute that a hen somewhere has lain and eggs so incongruous.

Back to the back seat torture (more later) for a meandering drive to the northern most reaches of the island for a beach visit and lunch and then onto the Kilauea Lighthouse. 

Picnic lunch beach side - still not our version of Australian beach

This wildlife refuge provided sweeping views of the stunning coastline and was home to hundreds of birds nesting, swooping and diving. 

And now, reverting to the "luxury" bus details. Each time we do a bus trip we make an assement of the crowd and then head to an appropriate seat. Looked up and down and we had a few years on many, were more mobile than most and even smaller in width than some. Thought it would be more appropriate for us to take the back seat once again - we could manoeuvre into the space more easily. It was an unusual seat configuration with four rows of three and the back row of four seats. Not our usual roomy 5 seat configuration..

So this turned out to be a BIG mistake. We squeezed in the back seat, cheek to cheek, elbow to elbow, thigh to thigh. The back row was really only three and a half seats wide and the last person to board was the biggest person and we were literally wedged. And you couldn't put your feet on the ground in the corner seat because the floor space housed the protruding wheel well.

Hot box, limited view and wheel well! Luxury was definite misnomer - bloody torture chamber

And if that wasn't enough, the air-conditioning struggled to provide either coolness or airflow. It was hot and uncomfortable and from now on we will not be taking that back seat ever again. Every man for himself will be invoked.

Thank goodness we did have a few stops where we could get out and let the clothes dry out from the sweat!

Definitely felt we needed to rehydrate back on board so headed straight to the bar for a couple of the cocktails of the day and sadly caught up on the news of Queen Elizabeth. Don't mind admitting that I shed a few tears reading the stories of her passing. Found it very touching today that flags on public building and in private residences across the island were flying at half mast in honour of HRH. 

For Queen Elizabeth

No hesitation in a little pre dinner snack that included two dessert samplings for @Mac before showers and dinner. Majority of cruisers were off to entertainment on the island tonight so really had the ship almost to ourselves and had no trouble at all waltzing into an 8 o'clock dinner slot. Still finding seafood on the menu and somehow eating and drinking our way through to the 9.30 show time.

Double menu choices tonight

Definitley on the run home now. A bit of cruising around the Garden Isle tomorrow and then we will be thinking about flights home. You know it is all coming to an end when they send you your luggage tags, the onboard expenses statement and a guide on how to tip your Conceirge, Butler and Stateroom attendant. I might have to see if I can do the washing up tomorrow to cover the incidentals because a quick scan of our cash stash revealed not much more than those single dollar bills. Mind you, conveniently, there is an ATM on board. Is it pension day yet?

Step Count: 10533

Weather:  26-22 - but about 40 in that glassed cell of the back-seat of the bus

Day 13: A coffeeless visit to Kona

Dashed around to the western side of the Big Island overnight to visit Kona

 Hailed as the original "capital" of Hawaii it was the first place settled by the missionaries some two hundred years ago.  .

Churches and a palace  dominated the harbour along with three ABC stores. 

Going, going, gone. Needed to lick the hat!

The shoreline was ringed by absolutely crystal clear water and  although metres deep you could once again see to the bottom  The near white beach was bustling with visitors taking advantage of the paddle boards and snorkelling gear and although the mountain ring which ran close to the shore was ringed ny ominous rain clouds the shoreline itself was bathed in sunshine.

Another port that has missed the tourists. Very sad really. Abandoned and run down venues form the majority of the real estate. Venues with large signs advertising coffee and food were now little hole in the wall jewellery and trinket shops.

Pathways and walkways were overgrow amd uneven, roofs were missing sections, windows amd doorways boarded up - but still a glimmer of hope with the return of some visitors not only from the cruise ships but from the annual World Ironmam Triathlon.

Kona coffee didn't make it in the highlights reel

The history of Kona suggests that its beaches and weather were so beautiful that this area was the choice of the Kings for their holiday residences. If time had permitted we would have ventured further afield. Would have loved to have visited the volcanic peak of Mauna  Kea, the highest mountain in the world (if the depth under the ocean were included) and even to have visited the obelisk that marks the place where Captain Cook was slain by the Hawaiins. Not on the itinerary today.

Bit of beach, some history and shops

We did compensate though with a mountain of shaved ice. It was massive and had the obligatory bubbles in it. Found ourselves a lava wall as a table and sipped, spooned and slurped our way to the bottom of the plate. A definite winner and something they don't compete with at any of the bars or restaurants on the ship.

It was the only tender boat harbour on this tour so that does add a little to the wait and transfer time. By the time we nosed our way through a few shops that was our morning and early afternoon done.

Tender boat - takes a while

Back on board at just after 2 we skipped food lunch and opted for the cocktail of the day and some balcony time before sprucing up ready for "Hollywood" show night. Loved the song and dance tribute to the movies through the decades. Very clever set and costume changes and high energy performance. Had sets appearing and disappearing into the floor of the stage, chairs being plucked from the ceiling and even rain pouring from the lighting rigging into drains on the floor for the "Singing in the rain" tribute. Tapped our feet amd clapped along. Great show.

And it finished right on time for our dining reservation.

Confessing right now, we ate way too much at dinner and that is despite very responsible sizing serves by the  Chefs. We were at the specialty French cuisine restaurant Jefferson's Bistro.  The problem was we indulged in all four courses - and I have to mention that I maintained my speciality streak with scallops, then crabs, then lobster! Triple header. @Mac was very happy, literally licked the garlic bowls clean from his escargot. Too many options on the menu but we did our best in just one sitting.

Haven't really topped off too many meals with desert but made a double exception tonight - not only desert but also desert cocktails.

Too much food tonight

And now for the "freddo frog face" moment of the evening. Had one of those moments when the more you try to stop laughing the worse it gets. But it was quiet laughing, I just had tears running down my face and I couldn't speak. And it started with the simplest thing. We were sitting in the French restaurant and I am trying to take my nightly photo of "@Mac with the menu." I apologied to him for asking him to hold the pose for so long because right out the window behind him was the doorway to the ladies toilet - and I explained I wanted to wait a little longer in order to snap a picture without the "loo ladies" in it. 

His response, as quick as a whip, delivered in absolute deadpan was "Oui, oui."  

That was it. Got me a beauty. And then he had the "I'm so proud of how clever I am Freddo Frog face" on.  I had to pay that one. I can skip the comedy show I have my own travelling comedian. 

"Oui, oui" - the comedian

A definite evening of over indulgence in the late night food department. I don't think I will ever eat again .... well, at least not until tomorrow.

Step Count: 7453

Weather: 28-22 still no views of sunrise or sunset

Day 12: All quiet on the edge of the volcano

Off the ship again today on the eastern side of the Big Island of Hawaii at Hilo. First thing we noted were the "clouds" (haven't seen non stop clear blue skies since we left Oahu) and the large rock wall that encircled the harbour.

Now that's an hibiscus!

Two stories dominate here at Hilo - the threat of tsunamis (hence the rock wall to encourage the killer waves to break further off shore) and the active volcanoes (its last catastrophic eruption as recently as 2018.)

We were hoping for a non eventful natural disaster kind of day.

Organised a seat on the bus of a small group tour with C Big Island Tours with a very sensible jump off time of 10 am. 

Very sensible start at 10 am

Everything was "close" today - the volcanic Crater. out furtherest point, was only a 40 minute drive. 

Beautiful Japanese gardens

Started with a visit to a 45 acre Japanese Garden (the largest outside of Japan) complete with beautiful landscaping, bridges and streams filled with fish- people had their lines in and were fishing here. In our 20 minute stop off only saw one tiny corner of the garden.

Some fine sand on this beach - water crystal clear

Drove on another 10 minutes (noone late for rhe bus be as @Edmund was clear on the consequences) to visit a black sand beach and to look for turtles. Fine grains of sand here but  no turtles that we could spot. The beach is also supposed to have traces of the "green" mineral olivene- but we couldn't spot it.

Rainbow Fals - sans 🌈 

Back on board and literally what felt like a trip around the block we were at Rainbow Falls. Again, easily accessible, and this little "drop" of cascading water does play out some rainbows in the right light. Not the right light - no rainbows - but definitely plenty of hibiscus on steroids 

Called into a local corner store to pick up a boxed lunch to go and the highlight for us was our one and only encounter with SPAM. Much to the amusement of the locals we were madly snapping pics of the good old SPAM tin. Still haven't tried anything on the menu "yet."

Just like home! Still on "to do" list

And then onto to the main event. A visit to the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. @Edmund gave his intro and then  played a documentary showing the history of eruption over time. Was a fabulous intro although he withheld the graphic 2018 eruption for the homeward journey - just so we wouldn't be overwhelmed by the possibility of an eruption.

Just smoke in the distance

Glad we had the video because you don't see any of the active brouling and hot molten lava pool from the viewing stations - you get to look out over the grey/black ash caldera and can see the plumes of smoke - but the lava pool is 1000 metres below you under the rim of the caldera.

 Kīlauea and Mauna Loa were both smoking and we were grateful they were behaving today.

The steam did pour out at intervals

Our  drive also took us to steam vents and to the Thurston Lava Tube . Got up close and personal to both and although there were 33 steps involved to get into the lava tube, it was lit to make for easy walking. 

Our only sprinkle of rain was at the Lava Tube

T h e weather was very kind to us. We could see the clouds building but other than a little sprinkle at the lava tubes, it only rained on the drive home.

 Something like 300 inches of rain a year here and it rains on  an average of 290 days of the year. Can you imagine your garden here? The plants are CRAZY BIG - everything so green and colourful and HUGE. I guess the tsunamis and the volcanic eruptions occasionally INTERRUPT  the perfect gardening plan

.

Not sure how it works but that rock wall is the tsunami dampener

About the cats. We have seen lots again. And @Edmund gave us a bit more insight. The Hawaiins love the cats. They control the plague of rats and mice. Lots of feral cats on the island but there is a free system here where you can acquire a cage from the council - trap the cat - take it in for desexing - and then collect and release.

Led to a discussion of the cane toad! Apparently they are a pest here as well. Although Aus imported from Hawaii - the cane toads were native from South America where they had plenty of natural predators. Same problem here now as in Aus - cane toads consuming so many animals amd growing to such large size.

We are always so lucky on tour - we really enjoy the interactions with the people we meet - enjoy their stories and love sharing in their adventures. Every now and then, however, there is "one" and in this case it was "two." You know the stereotypical LOUD AMERICAN. These two ladies were complete strangers when they boarded and then tried to catch up on each other's dog lives for the last 50 years. One of them Facetimed her dogs to show them off during the bus ride with opening line "Mummy's here." Please, please don't tell me you can relate to that! Tour guide @Edmund had to ask them on a number of occasions to stop talking - they just drowned out the commentary and the instructions. 

Anyway, we never have to see or hear them again so that is the positive although we somehow jagged the "loud American" two tables over at dinner - this time the one with "THE LAUGH."

The ship is running at reduced staffing capacity - lots of restaurants and bars closed. Tonight was really the first  time we have been impacted. Had our little evening planned to include a round of BINGO in between dinner and the late show. Unfortunately must have been the plan of many others. We had to queue for some time and then were given one of those restaurant call buzzer things. Had to go to one of the music bars and sample a few cocktails for our 40 minute wait which meant we missed lucky legs eleven calls for the BINGO. 

Every afternoon a different treat in the room- today, choc dipped strawberries

Seafood with Asian influence tonight

Very risque adults only late comedy show that had us laughing out loud. Vince was very funny- his show is built on just a couple of "prepared" jokes- the rest he builds on the fly though interaction with the audience. We hunkered down really low and sat very still to ensure we didn't get "selected" for any of the audience participation cause once he has you he is relentless.

Every show also has two "signers" to provide translation for any deaf passengers. They are fabulous to watch - in fact sometimes a little distracting. But they are working very hard and sometimes their animated interpretation is compelling viewing. A good service of inclusivity - there was only one guest in the audience who was deaf last night but she was laughing up a storm.

@Mac was quick to turn the dial to "Do not disturb" as we entered the room. To be fair I think I snoozed off standing up cleaning my teeth. New port tomorrow is on the other side of the island at Kona.

Steps: 11454

Weather: 28-22 

Day 11: The long and winding road ... to Hana

Worked up the energy and motivation today to leave the ship. The Pride of America was docked two days in the Kahului Harbor of Maui and disembarkation was onto an industrial wharf. All effortless and all with staff greeting you and welcoming you to the island. A pretty dingy little harbour but definitely brightened by the enthusiasm of the staff.

Getting his lava tube on

Joined 16 others on the Polynesian Adventure Tours’ mini bus for The Road to Hana. When I had first heard about this route I had asked @Mac if he would be prepared to drive us and he said he would. However, the more reviews I read, the more dramatic and dangerous the descriptions became. I am so glad that we ended up opting for the bus.

The Road to Hana at Maui

It was a spectacular scenic route around Maui’s northern and eastern shoreline. It was an out and back route that hugged the coastline, perched high on the cliff edge, on a narrow strip of highway with many single lane bridges. We were afforded views from rhe cliff face to the ocean, passed multiple cascading waterfalls, were surrounded by tropical rainforest, amazing blooming trees and shrubs and a constant flow of two way traffic edging along taking turns across the 23 single lane bridges that make up the route. Oh, and the CHICKENS! EVERYWHERE. And just saying, I am so over @Mac’s “there’s my Red Rooster” joke that he keeps replaying for each new audience – forgetting of course that I have heard this little line more that once.

Red Rooster and morning turtles

Plenty of stops to catch the scenery

Our driver was @Ed and he knew his stuff. He had a heavily accented voice and you really had to concentrate and we did a lot of translating for the German lady who had sat in front of us. Her English seemed perfect but she couldn’t pick up on the detail as he talked with speed .

We were set up in the 5 seat back row with Kevin and Leilah from “the south” so youall can understand that language, in all types of English, was fun.

The tricky stretch on the Road to Hana is just 29 miles and it is counted down by signage mile by mile. It took us from 7 am until 1 pm to reach our farthest point on the way out – but just two and a half hours with a single stop on the return trip.

There was so much to see and do but the highlights were:

The turtles: we pulled into Hookipa Beach and from a vantage point above the beach we could see 8 huge green sea turtles had lumbered up onto the beach. Their drag marks were the giveaway. This was just the “sampler” – as we did male kist one stop on the way back and were able to walk lower down the headland to now see 48 on the beach.

Afternoon turtles

 You had to get your eye in because they were easily confused with the smoothed black boulders. Saw a number of them pull up stakes and make the slow, ponderous flopper drag back into the ocean. The water was so clear, we could then see how effortlessly they moved in the water.

The Lava Tubes: @Ed was regularly pointing out these entrances as we crawled along the highway. Eventually, where the siding and the road width permitted, he pulled over and asked if anyone wanted to walk through them. A little timidly and reluctantly we joined @Leilah and @Kevin as the takers. It was only a narrow opening from the road with a couple of big drops and entangled tree roots to get inside. @Mac had to get himself in and then work out some way to winch me through and of course when we were both in there was no way we could get out the same way. Only option was to go forward. Now @Ed had said “You’ll need a torch.” We thought our phone light would do. Very wrong. Our little stream of light didn’t make a dint in the darkness. Didn’t project far enough for us to pick a path and find the exit. Thank goodness our Alabama farmers had a “real” torch. When @Kevin got @Leilah safely out the mere 50 metres of the switch back tunnel he came back for us – so very very grateful. Not sure how I got out the other end – just know there were three people helping. Hot and bothered by the end, and got myself a real doosey of a bruise on the inside of my thigh from trying to swing my leg (casually and elegantly) over the guard rail, but glad we had a go.

Lava tube below road level

Black Beach: just as the name suggests this was a little strip of beach, accessed by a walkway and 63 steps that was made up of various sized and smoothed basalt rocks and pebbles. The sand was never talcum powder smooth, more like a granular rice. But every piece was washed clean and smooth. Families were set up here enjoying a day in the refreshing, crystal clear blue waters and lolling on the black sands/grains/pebbles.

Had another lava tube adventure here – so much easier this time, right on the shoreline with just a little narrow duck-in entry.

Black Beach lava tube

We got a good laugh at the sign on exit that warned that rocks and sand samples should not be removed as they bring “bad luck.”

@Mac went for a little further explore than me on the headland – we came to a steep incline that would have needed an entire crew to manhandle me up and down. I stood in the next downpour of rain taking shelter under an umbrella tree.

Black Beach

Have to mention the weather here. Sort of crazy. Never cold. On one stretch of road, it was sunshine. Turn the corner and it was raining. Round the next bend it was fine again. We had intermittent showers all day – not sprinkles but “plops” of rainfall. You didn’t even really slow down or miss a beat cause that shower would pass over in about two minutes. It did ramp up the humidity though so it was often a mad dash to reclaim the back seat and the whoosh of cool drying air from the air con. Really funny weather – the rain was so “in the background “ and over so quickly that it never interfered with any plans.

So much more along the road and definitely worth the effort.

Arrived back on board just before 5 and we were starving. Headed straight up to the Aloha Buffet because it was seafood night and put ourselves together a little appetiser plate. Perfect timing.

Loved the fruit carving at seafood night

Showers, show (music through the decades with a group called These Guys Worldwide – no lost phone distraction) and then dinner (minus appetisers) in the dining room.

Dining round two

If only @Mindy had been with us for the phone incident the crisis would have been averted. During dinner we received a message from her to remind us to just “ping” the phone. Yep, tapped the “find my phone” icon on my watch and the phone dutifully beeped. Lose my phone so often at home and use that to find it, how come we didn’t think of it?

Started the day at 6 , crawled into bed just after 10. Glad we had a rest day yesterday.

Step Count: 15189

Weather: 28-22 rain in the morning, around every corner and in the evening